The prophet's words

[Nannette]

The living history of the Jewish Quarter in Jerusalem's Old City

Once long ago, or so the talmudic story goes, Rabbi Akiva and some of his students stood on a hill overlooking the Temple Mount and gazed at the devastation below. His students began to cry, but Rabbi Akiva burst out laughing. Then a fox dashed out of the very spot on which the Holy of Holies had stood. The young men wept while Rabbi Akiva shook with mirth.

Through their tears, the students asked their mentor what had made him laugh. "Why do you shed tears?" he queried in reply. "Did not Jeremiah predict that the Temple hill would become a mount overgrown with thickets? Does not the Bible say that foxes will walk on the desolate mount of Zion? I am filled with joy for, just as these prophecies have been fulfilled, so will Zechariah's words come true, and once again men and women of ripe old age will sit in the streets of Jerusalem, each with cane in hand because of his age. The city streets will be filled with boys and girls playing there."

If Rabbi Akiva could visit Jerusalem's Jewish Quarter today, he would probably be speechless with delight. He would hear a cacophony of young voices - the sound of Jewish children reciting their lessons out loud - from almost every street. He would discover tourists exploring the quarter's ancient byways, and browsing the shops. He would watch the quarter's residents peacefully going about their daily lives.

Any outing in the Jewish Quarter is bound to be an enjoyable experience and, inevitably, educational as well. This suggested circular jaunt, which begins at Rehov Mishmarot Hakehuna next to the parking lot, is completely accessible to wheelchairs.

Head into the quarter, passing a low complex called the Four Sephardi Synagogues that dates back to the 16th century. Muslim authorities wouldn't let the Jews erect any house of worship taller than their smallest mosque, so construction of the synagogues cleverly began below street level.

In the end, this Muslim requirement may have saved many Jewish lives, for the complex served as a bomb shelter during the War of Independence. It became a last refuge for the Jews of the Old City before they were forced to surrender to the Arab Legion on May 28, 1948.

Nineteen years later, after the Six Day War, Jewish soldiers re-entered the pillaged and defiled houses of worship to discover that the Jordanians had turned the complex into a stable. Since that time the synagogues have been completely restored and are open for visitors and worship.

Continue on Mishmarot Hakehuna. In front of the Hurva Arch (all that remains of a once splendid synagogue), turn left to connect up with Jewish Quarter Street. You are looking down at the Cardo, modeled on the wide boulevards typical of cities throughout the Roman Empire.

Our spacious Cardo was first built in the second century CE, after Shimon Bar-Kochba lost a desperate, last-ditch revolt against the Romans. At the end of that ill-fated rebellion, Jerusalem became off-limits to the Jews and the luxurious city called Aelia Capitolina was constructed over its ruins.

Continue on, until you reach the Arab market. The first street on the left is Hashalshelet. (Since there are no steps here, you can enter the Cardo with a wheelchair.) Go as far as you want, letting the street's attractive shops and elegant aura give you a feel for the Cardo's former grandeur. Finally, backtrack and return to Jewish Quarter Street.

Go left on Rehov Plugot Hakotel, and you will reach an enormous wall whose exposed portion is 65 meters long and seven meters wide. Archeologists have named it "the Broad Wall," referring to the phrase: "They restored Jerusalem as far as the Broad Wall" (Nehemiah 3:8).

King Hezekiah ordered the wall's construction around 700 BCE, when Jerusalem was in danger of being overrun by the Assyrians. Ultimately, although most of Judah was destroyed by the Assyrians, in Jerusalem the enemy was defeated.

Continue on Rehov Plugot Hakotel to the only First Temple period museum in the world. Among its displays are a 3-D audio-visual presentation, an excellent exhibit illustrating the development of the Hebrew language and a copy of the earliest written Torah portion in existence. It had been rolled into a silver container and placed around someone's neck around 2,700 years ago.

During the period of the First Temple, Jews of means were buried in large family caves. They were placed on slabs that often had headrests, and valuable personal items were deposited alongside them. A year later, when all that was left were his bones, the departed was moved to a very small chamber inside the cave.

A model of a First Temple-era burial cave is on display at the museum. So is a stone, inscribed in ancient Hebrew, which was taken from a Jerusalem cave. It names the person who was buried inside, declares that there is no gold and silver within - and roundly curses any grave-robber who touches the cave.

Exit to the right, then follow Rehov Bonei Hahoma to Rehov Tiferet Yisrael. Turn left, and go right on Rehov Misgav Ladach as far as No. 33, which is the Sephardic Center.

Perhaps to counter the work of a missionary hospital in the Armenian Quarter, Jerusalem's first Jewish hospital was established in this building in 1856. A few decades later, after neighborhoods began springing up outside the walls, the hospital moved to quarters on Rehov Hanevi'im, outside the Old City walls. This building was bought by the Sephardi Benevolent Society and was called the Misgav Ladach Hospital. The name comes from a biblical phrase: "The Lord is a refuge for the oppressed (misgav ladach), a stronghold in times of trouble" (Psalms 9:10).

During the War of Independence, it was the only hospital operating inside the Old City walls. After the fall of the Jewish Quarter in 1948, Misgav Ladach moved, together with some of the refugees from the Old City, to Jerusalem's Katamon neighborhood.

Peek into the front yard of Lea Majaro Mintz, a world-famous sculptor, to view her statues and art-deco flowerpots. Then follow Rehov Beit Hashoeva to Kikar Batei Hamahaseh, lined on one side with long rows of dome-covered houses. Dominating the square is a graceful two-story building with a porch and ornate arches.

During the 19th century, Jerusalem experienced a population explosion of (relatively) gargantuan proportions. Existing apartments were already jam-packed and sanitary conditions were intolerable. And still the Jews came to the city...

In 1857, wealthy Jews from a Dutch-German association purchased the square and all the area around it, land which had been empty for centuries. They constructed 100 apartments for the poor that were luxurious by contemporary standards - two rooms apiece with a kitchen and a courtyard! Rent was minimal and at times the apartments were let for no fee at all. In 1871, Baron Karl Rothschild of Frankfurt built the largest of the buildings - the elegant domicile bearing the Rothschild coat of arms.

The last remaining Jews congregated in this square on May 28, 1948. Soldiers were sent into captivity in Jordan, along with some of the population, while other civilians were packed off to west Jerusalem. After the Six Day War in 1967, the Rothschild building was restored and became the headquarters of the Jewish Quarter Development Company.

Cross the square and go left around Beit Rothschild to reach a stone platform, a very modest monument to defenders of the quarter. Those who fell during the last days of fighting couldn't be taken outside the walls for burial and were hastily laid to rest on this spot. Their bodies were re-interred on the Mount of Olives after the Six Day War.

Backtrack across the plaza, then follow the narrow lane next to Beit Rothschild, turn left and immediately right onto Rehov Hahatzotzra and you will have returned to the parking lot.

First Temple Period Museum: Sun.-Thur. 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Call in advance to ask for the presentation in English, and to request a guided tour (included in the entrance fee). Entrance: NIS 12/10.

Special on Hol Hamoed: reduced prices; audio-visual in English 11:30 a.m., 2:30 and 5:30 p.m.; family activities centered on the alphabet, the Assyrian siege and battle techniques in ancient times. Phone: (02) 628-6288.

Wheelchair-accessible restrooms: Rehov Plugat Hakotel near the Broad Wall; and just off Rehov Misgav Ladach, opposite the top of Ma'alot Rabbi Yehuda Halevi.

The Old Yishuv Court Museum

The Old Yishuv Court Museum is definitely worth a visit. The museum is actually a number of rooms grouped around a courtyard. The complex, which dates back hundreds of years, once housed Jewish families and several synagogues until the loss of the quarter in 1948. It was restored after the Six Day War.

Inside, you will find fascinating ethnic rooms, period rooms and synagogues. You can examine personal effects donated by former residents, and read their captivating stories: especially interesting are the childbirth bed, the courtyard laundry washbasin, and recycled objects such as a flowerpot with the Shell Oil company trademark! There are surprises, as well: Did you know that the famous Berman bakery chain got its start here in 1834, when Krishe Berman started the first commercial bakery in the Holy Land?

A rare new exhibit, on display for the first time, contains photographs and items connected to the capitulation of the quarter in 1948 and the Jordanian captivity. Especially touching is the flag created by the prisoners. It was simply made, out of cloth and ink, and flown proudly on the truck that returned them to Jerusalem.

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He who is merciful with the cruel, will end-up being cruel to the merciful
- Kohelet Rabba 7:16